Hair Styling & Education

Each strand of hair is composed of three concentric layers. The medulla is the innermost core, present in thick hair but often absent in fine hair. The cortex constitutes the bulk of the hair shaft and contains the melanin granules responsible for hair colour. The cuticle is the outermost layer — a series of overlapping scales that protect the cortex and determine shine and texture.

From rosemary's demonstrated ability to inhibit 5-alpha reductase (the enzyme that converts testosterone to DHT) to the ceramide-mimicking properties of rice bran oil, plant-derived actives offer a rich pharmacopoeia for hair health. This entry catalogues the most evidence-supported botanical ingredients and their mechanisms of action.

Point cutting — also called texturising or chipping — involves cutting into the ends of the hair at an angle rather than straight across. This technique removes bulk, softens blunt lines, and creates movement. It is particularly effective on thick, coarse hair and is a foundational technique in both classic and contemporary cutting.

Permanent hair colour works through a two-stage chemical process: the alkaline developer (hydrogen peroxide) opens the cuticle and oxidises the natural melanin, while the colour molecules (oxidative dyes) penetrate the cortex and polymerise into larger, trapped colour molecules. Understanding this chemistry is essential for predicting colour outcomes and managing hair integrity.

The scalp hosts a complex ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that play a critical role in scalp health. An imbalanced microbiome — often caused by over-cleansing, harsh surfactants, or antibiotic use — can contribute to dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and hair thinning. Prebiotic and probiotic scalp treatments are an emerging area of trichology.

The LOIS system (L, O, I, S — representing the shape of individual strands) offers a more nuanced alternative to the widely-used Andre Walker typing system. By considering strand shape alongside texture (fine, medium, coarse) and porosity, stylists can make more precise product and technique recommendations for clients with textured hair.